Cantinho do Aziz
Mozambican Comfort Food in Mouraria
Cantinho do Aziz brings the flavors of Mozambique to Lisbon, offering a vibrant taste of African cuisine in the heart of the city
Story and Photography by Joy Grant
As I wrapped up a visit to a small winery in the Portuguese countryside, my conversation with Elias, the winemaker, turned to my plans for Lisbon. After hearing that I wanted to prioritize visiting black-owned businesses he excitedly listed off a few of his favorites and offered to join me. Never one to turn down a local experience, I took him up on his offer. While he admitted to rarely eating Mozambican food that his mom or sister didn’t prepare he did have a Mozambican restaurant up his sleeve. “They have the best chamussas,” he said with a knowing smile, “I know you’ll love them.”
A few days later, we met up in Mouraria, one of Lisbon’s most diverse neighborhoods and historically a melting pot of cultures. Cantinho Do Aziz is tucked into a side street just a short walk from the main square. As we approached the restaurant, we were greeted by customer’s laughter as they sat at tables near outdoor heaters. The majority of the seating is located in front of the restaurant, while it was December the 60-degree weather was perfect for enjoying a meal on the terrace which was wrapped with a yellow wall full of the restaurant’s high praises from critics throughout the years.
As we settled into our table, Elias gave me a brief overview of the restaurant’s history. Cantinho Do Aziz has been in business for over 30 years weathering many storms and adjusting when needed whether it was adjusting the menu, or updating the decor. The siblings who own it weren’t shy to make changes when needed, fighting to keep their father (who started the business) and the restaurant’s legacy alive.
The best way to describe the menu is Mozambican with Indian and Portuguese influences. Mozambique’s position off the coast of the Indian Ocean has made it a crossroad for cultures, and today, much of its Indian population traces its roots to Goa, a Portuguese colony until 1961. Cantinho Do Aziz showcases this history beautifully, consistently illustrating how these two cultures blend well together. The famous chamussas, a Mozambican take on samosas, are a great example of that.
To start, we ordered every chamussa on the menu; beef, chicken, and veggie. Each arrived at our table perfectly golden. Chamussas are more triangular and compact than samosas with a thinner and crispier pastry and they’re packed full of flavor with spicy piri piri sauce served on the side to add the perfect amount of heat.
For the main courses, we had the makoufe and caril camarāo. The Makoufe, one of their most popular dishes is comfort food at its finest. This creamy cabbage stew is full of crab and prawns cooked in a peanut and coconut sauce. The texture was soft but not mushy, and the flavors were simple but elevated with a smoky finish that lingered just long enough to make me want another bite. The caril camarāo, a shrimp dish in a fragrant tomato curry, was served with a side of rice. To add an extra layer of heat I drizzled the peri peri sauce on top, an addition I highly recommend.
By the time we finished our meal, I understood why Cantinho Do Aziz is a Lisbon staple. The restaurant is more than just a place to eat, it’s a space where history, culture, and culinary greatness come together with each bite.