Elias Macovela’s
Wine, Identity, and Unshakable Passion
With deep respect for the land and a determination to stand on his own, Elias Macovela’s wines reflect his journey from Mozambique to Portugal; redefining representation in an industry rooted in tradition.
Story and Photography by Joy Grant
With deep respect for the land and a determination to stand on his own, Elias Macovela’s wines reflect his journey from Mozambique to Portugal; redefining representation in an industry rooted in tradition.
Story and Photos by Joy Grant
“I stand up for my wine, I fight for my projects, and I fight for my place. That’s what I want to bring to the industry. I’m not against other people. I just want to be respected as an equal, a person capable of making wine.” Elias Macovela’s voice is steady, his words are measured but firm. There’s no bitterness or anger in his tone, only conviction. Seated in the middle of his winery, surrounded by the very wine he nurtured from the soil up, he not only speaks of winemaking but of purpose as well. His hands move as he talks, gesturing toward the land, full of potential and hope. For Elias, each bottle is proof of his dedication, a testament to the fact that he belongs in this space, not because of permission granted, but because of the work he’s put in.
Growing up, Elias was first introduced to wine by his father, who was an avid wine enthusiast back home in Mozambique. It wasn’t until he moved to Portugal at 24, to work as a theater lighting designer, that he would be fully introduced to the world of wine. “I lived near a local wine shop that an old man owned, and every Monday, he’d organize a tasting with a group of older gentlemen, and they’d invite me.” Elias became friends with the group and would usually be sent home with the leftover wine. He quickly became engrossed with wine, finding other tastings to attend and doing research. Wanting to become more immersed in the field, Elias eventually started a blog where he reviewed wines and built a strong reputation in the wine community. When he decided to fully step into the wine industry, he got a degree in wine business, followed by a degree in winemaking. But he knew that knowledge wasn’t enough; he needed funding. To prepare, he worked in real estate for two years to ensure he’d be able to stand on his own two feet, and when it was finally time, he hit the ground running. His first wine was released in 2019 and received 18/20 points, making it an overall success. Yet, for Elias, the true reward isn’t in the accolades or sales. “The best part is sitting with people and seeing them enjoy the wine, that’s the best feeling,” he says, a proud smile spreading across his face.
Since 2019, Elias has opened two wineries. The winery I visited is his second, nestled in the Bairrada region between Coimbra and Aveiro. Tucked away in the countryside, the rustic gray building stands tall, with a curved terracotta roof and white trimmed archway making it stand out against the blue sky. The green double doors, blending with the surrounding grass, open into a space that feels both intimate and purposeful. Inside, aging wine bottles line one wall while supplies fill the other. A charming wooden table with benches sits in the middle of the front room, draped in a blue checkered tablecloth and set with wine glasses and unopened bottles. In the back, French wood and stainless steel barrels hold aging wines, alongside a grape press and white fermentation tanks. The space offers a balance of old-world features with modern efficiency, a testament to Elias’ approach to winemaking.
Even outside of aesthetics, this location offers exactly what he was hoping for. “We’re heavily influenced by the Atlantic sea winds and the nearby mountains. The combination makes a micro cleaner for the grapes and adds lots of freshness and minerality,” he explains. “The region is known for white and sparkling wines because the soil is mostly limestone.”
Along with those crisp whites and sparkling varieties, Bairrada is also known for the red baga grape which is widely considered the mother of the grape varieties in the region. “When you work well with the baga, you can make a superb wine,” Elias says, diving into the possibilities. “Because it’s so flexible, some wines made from it are very bold while others are more elegant like a pinot noir, which is where mine lean.”
Elias’ winemaking philosophy is rooted in authenticity and typicity. He describes the perfect wine as fresh with minerality, high acidity, and, of course, the potential to pair well with food. But beyond this, he ultimately wants to create wines that will stand the test of time: “I want someone to pick up one of these bottles in 20 years and say, ‘Wow what a fantastic wine.’”
As we continue through the winery, Elias offers me samples of his 2024 vintages, drawn directly from the barrels. With each new sample, he lifts his glass, giving it a long, purposeful swirl before inhaling deeply. “I’m trying to understand if the wine has richness in terms of aromas because it’s very young, and I was concerned about the fermentation,” he explains. Swirling his 2024 sparkling rosé, he inhales again, eyes sharpening with recognition. “Here I’ve found that there’s a lot of roses, strawberries, and it’s fresh,” he nods, “I’m very happy with this wine.” And I couldn’t help but agree, the 2024 sparkling rosé was one of my favorites, followed closely by the 2021 Bailador, which is a soft red with notes of cinnamon and blackberries.
Currently, Elias grows grapes for his sparkling wines at his winery in the Dāo region and sources the rest from small vineyards, working directly with farmers to organize the cultivation process. Through this system, he successfully avoids all pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides. Prioritizing health and quality, he does his best to avoid chemicals during the winemaking process as much as possible, relying only on Indigenous yeast and just enough SO₂ to protect the wine. “I want to make sure that my product is completely clean and of the best quality,” he emphasizes.
While the winery I visited doesn’t currently serve as a vineyard, Elias spoke excitedly about his plans to change that. “Right now, it’s not the best conditions, but with some hard work, everything is possible,” he said, looking around the space. His next goal is to successfully sell his new 2024 wine collection and then begin to update the winery, making it a better space to work and adding more storage. In the backyard, he plans to relocate the current trees and plant grapevines stretching toward the river that flows at the property’s edge, transforming the landscape into a fully operational winemaking site.
Once the tour was complete, we settled at the wooden table, ready to continue our conversation over lunch and, of course, more wine. Elias selected his 2020 white Miloro wine to accompany the Sea Bass and assorted vegetables in our second course. Miloro means dream and utopia in Changana, one of Mozambique’s indigenous languages. He decided to name the wines grown in this region Miloro, as a statement. “I’m Black, I’m from Mozambique, and I don’t want to hide that. I’m standing up as a Mozambican winemaker in Portugal, and I want to connect the two countries through my wine.” In an industry often marked by elitism, Elias has ingrained his identity into his craft. Miloro is more than a name, it’s an introduction to his heritage.
After voicing my interest in discovering other ways his Mozambican background shows up in his wine, he explained how his experiences have influenced his palette. “It’s my tasting background,” he said after thinking for a moment. “When they say blackberry…what…blackberries? I’m from Africa, I didn’t grow up with blackberries. I have another perception of the woods, flowers, tastes, and memory.” Even the concept of wine pairings is influenced by his background. “To me, pairing is a personal preference. Pairing is subjective. Traditional Pairing is a white thing, they rarely talk about ethnic foods, which is why I say: do what you want, drink what you like. If you like a drink and a dish together, then that’s enough, it’s a good pair.”
His unapologetic approach to wine pairing mirrors his philosophy as a winemaker—bold, unbound by convention, and deeply personal. Just as he encourages people to trust their taste, he is trusting his skills and carving his own path in an industry and country where Black winemakers remain rare. As we continued our meal, I asked him about his journey into winemaking and the challenges he has faced as a Black man along the way. He attributes a lot of his success to the relationships he formed while running his blog. Though his production is largely a one-man show, the support of his network is priceless, from being loaned building equipment to help set up his winemaking operation to having a menu selected for our meeting. “I’m surrounded by a lot of friends. From the production perspective, I don’t have any complaints. I have the support of the people, and that’s really important in this industry.” But while he feels that support from his peers, consumer opinions often tell a different story. “I sense that sometimes people judge the color of my skin instead of the wine. It’s a process, and I’m trying to fight that strongly. I’m very conscious of the challenge and responsibility I have.”
That challenge manifests in subtle, yet telling, interactions. “When people find out I’m a winemaker, they ask, ‘How come you are a winemaker?’ I know what they mean, but I act like I don’t understand. I ask them to explain. They hesitate, then say, ‘You know… how did you, as a Black man, become a winemaker?’ And I say, ‘Why can’t a Black person be a winemaker?’” He fights these assumptions not with anger but by proving himself through his craft and continued success.
Elias’ vision for breaking down barriers extends beyond his personal success. He wants to open doors for more Black people in the industry, not just as winemakers but as sommeliers, distributors, and in any other role they choose to go after.
More than anything, he strives to show Portugal’s Black community that it’s possible to create opportunities without having white financial support, that success can be built on their own terms, and this is where freedom is found. “I want to have a good life of my own, but I also need to build opportunities,” he says, his voice full of conviction. This is a part of the reason Elias is so open about being a Black winemaker, refusing to hide behind the scenes. “I want people to know exactly who I am, I am not hiding who I am. I am bringing it to the table.”
When reflecting on his journey it was clear that Elias has found a perfect balance between his passions and talents. “Winemaking gives me the same thing that theater once did. Creating magic in the theater gave me pure happiness, and here it’s the same thing. I spend a lot of time working here building my wines, and I’m also creating happiness.” With each bottle he produces, he isn’t just sharing his craft; he’s telling a story, one of heritage, perseverance, and the dream of a more inclusive industry.