Josefina's Kitchen
Uncover the heart and heritage of Puerto Viejo in a local cooking class one dish at a time
By Joy Grant
Photography by Joy Grant and Nina Scott
Chicken, rice, and beans may seem simple, but for Josefina Morales-Gallimore, this meal tells a story of her family’s resilience and strength – holding tightly to a culture they are deeply proud of. She spent a large portion of her life working on cruise ships as a chef and traveling the world. When she returned to Puerto Viejo she started hosting cooking classes in her home to connect with people visiting her hometown and share her family’s story.
On the evening of our class, Nina and I rode our bikes to Josefina’s, carefully following her landmarks and Google Maps. Located right in the middle of downtown, Josefina is central no matter what side of Puerto Viejo you’re staying in. She met us on the porch with a smile and ushered us in with the rest of the guests. Joining us were three other pairs of travelers, all of us from the United States. Josefina has been hosting cooking classes in her home for the last two years. Her goal when starting these classes was to connect with people and share her family’s story. Her love for storytelling and connecting people showed as she finished setting the table. Eight chairs circle the island in her kitchen which sits facing the cooktop, giving us all a front-row seat.
Before the class officially started, Josefina moved deliberately about the kitchen grabbing different spices and ingredients, naming them as she sat them around the counter. If you’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting a Caribbean woman’s house you know that being in the kitchen with them is a sacred practice. And even more so if they’re taking the time to show you how to make something. The blend of peppers, garlic, and thyme wraps around you, warm and inviting, as if welcoming you home.
The meal’s starter sat on the table as we settled in. A savory yet refreshing pico de gallo and tortilla chips were ready for each pair of participants to dive in. Freshly cut coconuts sat positioned with a hibiscus perfectly garnishing the lid. Once everyone arrived, Josefina stood in the middle of her kitchen wiping her hands on a dish towel, and began to tell her family’s Puerto Viejo origin story. Her family arrived in the Province of Limon in the late 1800s as migrant workers. With them, they brought their traditions, language, and of course their food. Over the next fifty years, more Jamaicans would follow and have a huge impact on Limon’s food. Now, in Costa Rica’s Caribbean Coast, Jamaican dishes and ingredients can be found in most restaurants. As Josefina shared her story, she created a space where we all felt comfortable sharing our own.
Josefina reminisced on the large Sunday meals that her family would have. “You’d cook early before church and would return home to dinner already done.” The meal we cooked with Josefina was heavily inspired by those Sunday dinners. While all of the food prep was done before we got there Josefina walked us through each step. “We always wash our meat” she emphasized, looking around at all of us. “You can use vinegar, lemons, or lime, but it must be washed.” Josefina took her time introducing each ingredient and talking through their origins, different uses, and why she prepares them the way she does. After she added the rice and beans to the rice cooker, it was time to start cooking the chicken. Already marinated, it just needed to be added to the skillet. When Josefina asked for volunteers to help with the meat I knew it was my time to shine. Seated closest to Josefina I took this as my chance to learn the skills that I knew would later be invaluable. As I began adding the meat into the pan, she let me know that I didn’t want it to get too crowded and she simply grabbed another pan. When the pan got hot and the grease began to pop she chuckled as I jumped out of the way but made sure to guide me on how to do it correctly.
By the end of the meal, everyone had the chance to help cook. We took turns with the chicken, cutting the plantain, and dressing the salad. An assembly line was made to help prepare each plate and make sure that everyone had a good healthy share giving the experience even more of a family feel. With our plates full of chicken, rice and beans, plantains, and salad we were all ready to dig in.
Josefina’s class is about more than just cooking. It’s a cultural exchange, a history lesson, and a way to connect to the heart of Puerto Viejo. We all left the class with an appreciation for the simplicity and richness of the meal and a deeper understanding of Limon’s history and Afro-Costa Rican culture. If you’re in Puerto Viejo and looking for activities, make sure to pay Josefina a visit for an unforgettable experience.
