Introduction to the Medina
Step into the heartbeat of Marrakech, where the souks are more than markets; they’re Morocco’s living museum, alive with the scent of spices, the glimmer of brass lamps, and the calls of merchants echoing through winding alleys
Words By Joy Grant Photos by Rania and Joy Grant
The first time I entered the Medina, I was overwhelmed by the sounds of haggling, the smell of spices, the glint of brass lamps, and the people crowded into tight alleyways as shop owners called out in hopes of getting my attention. Although I felt bombarded at first, I never felt unsafe. The souks served as an opportunity to rebuild trust in myself as a traveler, find some great deals, and discover Moroccan culture for myself.
The more time I spent in the Medina, the less intimidating the souks became. The chaos melted away and revealed a well-oiled machine. The deeper I went, the more I understood that the souks weren’t just a maze of markets; they’re Morocco’s living, breathing museum exhibiting its longstanding culture.
Founded in the 11th century by the Almoravids, the souks served as a major political and trading hub. Located in the center of ancient caravan routes, Marrakech became a meeting point for traders from all over the world. As the amount of goods sold increased, specialized markets were formed and eventually separated based on trade. Today, the souks are divided into sections such as the spice souk, the leather souk, the dye souk, etc. To this day, many of the families who were there at the start still work within the same craft. And while I knew most of that ahead of time, that didn’t make it any easier to navigate.
When doing research for this trip, many suggested that I enter the souks for the first time with a guide. Luckily enough, my hotel’s manager took me and a couple of other travelers on a short tour showing us the way from our riad to the Souks main square, Jemma el-Fnaa. Along the way, she pointed out other landmarks like the Madrasa Ben Yousef and Le Jardin Secret. And while a GPS is great, I suggest using landmarks as much as possible to orient yourself. Cell service can be spotty, and even on offline maps, the pin doesn’t always do the best job of showing which specific alley you’re in.
On my second day in town, I remember frantically walking up and down the same few streets because I couldn’t figure out which of the small streets led to my riad. It wasn’t until one of the shopkeepers noticed and helped me that I finally got turned in the right direction. My beloved GPS had failed me, yet reminded me that there was a world before technology, and paying attention to your surroundings would always be the safest bet. After this incident, I remembered streets by the faces of shopowners, a motorbike that had been parked in the same place for three days, or even the sound of handmade wind chimes. Now with the difficulty of navigating out of the way, I could focus on what really mattered: shopping.
